Jun Takahashi’s UNDERCOVERISM is back! 

Jun Takahashi’s UNDERCOVER has never been busier. The Japanese brand is eager to release its bold Evangelion collaboration alongside a new Gyakusou sneaker, and that’s to say nothing of various other sub-labels like The Shepherd, JohnUNDERCOVER, SueUNDERCOVER, and MADSTORE. And to top it, Takahashi is reintroducing its defunct UNDERCOVERISM brand descriptor with a Fall/Winter 2021 collection dubbed “Neoboy.”

Up until 2015, UNDERCOVERISM was dubbed for UNDERCOVER’s mainline menswear lineup. UNDERCOVERISM employed its own unique tags to distinguish the gendered pieces, but given that the company was simply known as UNDERCOVER, the brand unification made everything much simpler, though the myriad sub-labels likely give the design team enough challenge as is.

UNDERCOVERISM’s debut lineup is composed of over 40 menswear pieces, is no slouch. Its FW21 collection consists of many a items cut asymmetrically with exposed linings, blending with familiar UNDERCOVER elements with a touch of trim tailoring. Blazers, overcoats, wool chore coats, and bomber jackets are all finished with ragged, looping seams that warp the garments’ shapes as much as the plaid and striped patterns interrupt the otherwise muted color palette.

As usual, UNDERCOVER is overcompensating its latest label’s launch, loading out plenty of accessories, like stoles and sneakers, alongside the rich apparel assortment. Not for sale, are the headpieces crafted by French artist Anne-Valerie Dupond (previously employed by COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS, Yohji Yamamoto, and UNDERCOVER), which blowed an unsettling air to the UNDERCOVERISM lookbook, mirroring the warped suits and intentionally imbalanced silhouettes which are all over the internet.

UNDERCOVERISM’s new Fall/Winter 2021 collection will debut on UNDERCOVER’s website and Japanese stores from June 19.

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